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car_top_washer
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car_top_washer [2020/10/08 16:36] preavley |
car_top_washer [2025/03/23 19:48] (current) |
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| Yakima version: [[https://explore.yakima.com/roadshower|https://explore.yakima.com/roadshower]] (cost $330 up to $550) | Yakima version: [[https://explore.yakima.com/roadshower|https://explore.yakima.com/roadshower]] (cost $330 up to $550) | ||
| - | Word version of these instructions: <WRAP center round download 60%>\\ | + | Word version of these instructions: {{:equipment:cartopwasher:car_top_washer_rev1.docx|CarTopWasher.docx}} |
| - | CarTopWasher.docx\\ | + | |
| - | </WRAP> | + | |
| ==== Data: ==== | ==== Data: ==== | ||
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| * Note: Available means this much water might be delivered under pressure. | * Note: Available means this much water might be delivered under pressure. | ||
| - | ==== BUILD OPTION FOR END CAP DEVICES: ==== | + | ==== Build Option For End Cap Devices: ==== |
| * The end cap gets a Schrader valve, shut-off valve and relief valve. (Update: I have never used the dang Schrader valve – why did I bother?) This stuff is all a tight fit on a four-inch end cap. They are also hard to make a solid pressure tight seal. Remember to install such that backing nuts, washers, etc that are inside the end cap allow clearance for you to install the end cap onto the pipe correctly. | * The end cap gets a Schrader valve, shut-off valve and relief valve. (Update: I have never used the dang Schrader valve – why did I bother?) This stuff is all a tight fit on a four-inch end cap. They are also hard to make a solid pressure tight seal. Remember to install such that backing nuts, washers, etc that are inside the end cap allow clearance for you to install the end cap onto the pipe correctly. | ||
| * **Option A** (my version): Drill the holes undersize and then cut threads into the plastic ABS. I could not find proper tapping die, so I used a shop trick: took some scrap pipe fittings and cut slots in the threads so I could use these to tap threads into the plastic. This is tricky. I didn’t get the threads straight on the first try and when I pressure tested the final assembly it leaked. (Had to cut the thing off and have a little re-do.) | * **Option A** (my version): Drill the holes undersize and then cut threads into the plastic ABS. I could not find proper tapping die, so I used a shop trick: took some scrap pipe fittings and cut slots in the threads so I could use these to tap threads into the plastic. This is tricky. I didn’t get the threads straight on the first try and when I pressure tested the final assembly it leaked. (Had to cut the thing off and have a little re-do.) | ||
| * **Option B**: use “Bulkhead Fittings”, sometimes called Tank Fittings. These make a really dependable seal through vessel wall material. It’s a more sure thing, but this will cause the fittings to extend a little further out from the end of the pipe. I could not find any in town. There are plenty on-line. You might have trouble getting these to all fit in the one end-cap. They normally take a bit more room for gaskets and interior thread. One other advantage to these is that if there’s a problem with a fitting, it’s an easy re-fit. If you did Option A, you get to cut the end cap off and rebuild from scratch. | * **Option B**: use “Bulkhead Fittings”, sometimes called Tank Fittings. These make a really dependable seal through vessel wall material. It’s a more sure thing, but this will cause the fittings to extend a little further out from the end of the pipe. I could not find any in town. There are plenty on-line. You might have trouble getting these to all fit in the one end-cap. They normally take a bit more room for gaskets and interior thread. One other advantage to these is that if there’s a problem with a fitting, it’s an easy re-fit. If you did Option A, you get to cut the end cap off and rebuild from scratch. | ||
| - | ==== MATERIALS (Option A version): ==== | + | ==== Materials (Option A version): ==== |
| * ABS straight pipe, 4-in, schedule 40: typical in 10-ft lengths. I cut a 6 ft length and two one-foot lengths. I ended up with about 7-ft total pipe volume. | * ABS straight pipe, 4-in, schedule 40: typical in 10-ft lengths. I cut a 6 ft length and two one-foot lengths. I ended up with about 7-ft total pipe volume. | ||
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| * Foam pad for mounting the pipe. Ideally the pipe should slope toward the outlet valve. | * Foam pad for mounting the pipe. Ideally the pipe should slope toward the outlet valve. | ||
| - | ==== PHOTOS ==== | + | ==== Photos ==== |
| {{:equipment:cartopwasher:oncarfromfront.png?direct&|View from front on car top}} | {{:equipment:cartopwasher:oncarfromfront.png?direct&|View from front on car top}} | ||
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